I planned on reaching my truck the third day no matter what. Eight hours of rest the second night helped some but I could have easily slept in. My body was sore but my mind was refreshed. I cooked a small breakfast (oatmeal and hot chocolate) and hit the trail.
There was a short section of downhill that provided a painful warm up for my knees. The suspension bridge across Tahoma Creek was impressive. I was thankful for the vertical it saved and for the exposure it provided. I'm used to climbing cliffs, kayaking through boulders and skiing steep faces so I took it slow and spent most of the time looking down. I figured the adrenaline might help fuel my finish.
Adrenaline shot. Looking back on the suspension bridge across Tahoma Creek.
I didn't enjoy the first climb much. Some sections were bushy and there were plenty of cobwebs. Things improved as I exited the trees. I crossed paths with an elk in the rocky moraine. Besides marmots, this was the only animal that I saw during my trip.
I reached the ridge just over an hour from my camp. The views were great.
Emerald Ridge with the Tahoma Glacier in the background.
The descent to South Puyallup Camp was relatively painless. I stopped in the middle of the bridge to enjoy the cool breeze and refreshing roar.
South Puyallup River.
I passed a group of two on the climb to St Andrews. Several long switchbacks led to a ridge where it continued to climb. I stopped for sunscreen halfway through the traverse and it wasn't long before I reached the lakes. There were several groups camped who looked like they were just waking up. I had been hiking for over 3 hours.
St Andrews Lake.
This was the only section of the trail that I was familiar with the third day. I recalled it from a bike/hike up West Side a few years back. I continued down some flats until I reached what seemed like the edge of the world. This is where all those short switchbacks come into play.
A sign read just over 3 miles to North Puyallup Camp so I timed myself to check on my 3mph estimate. I reached North Puyallup Camp an hour later even though I traveled slower on the descent. There was a nice resting spot on the north side of the river so I stopped for a sandwich and drink. I had checked my map numerous times so I knew that there was a long flat section ahead.
I picked up the pace until a gradual uphill slowed me down. The map showed two creeks on the way to Golden Lakes. I was tired and needed water so I stopped at the first. This was a good thing because the second was dry.
There were a few flies that got on my nerves as I exited the trees. It was hot and I was sweaty. I swatted for a few minutes and finally stopped to kill them. I might have killed one while the rest went and got their friends. They continued to swarm until I reached Golden Lakes where the misquotes took over. Fortunately, they didn't last long.
Silver Forest near Golden Lakes with the Mowich Face on the left.
I wasn't sure how far it was to my truck at Mowich Lake. The map showed another big descent and climb but I was unsure of the distance. I finally passed a sign near the Golden Lakes ranger station that said 10.4 miles. I recall this number well because I dreaded every inch.
I continued past the lakes hoping that I would find a creek.
Not a drip in sight so I stopped before the sun and finished most of my water. The trail led out of the trees to a ridge where the switchbacks began. I dropped into the trees for my final descent.
It must have been 3 or 4pm. I took it slow because I knew I would make it. I found a clear creek where it flattened out so I filled a quart of water and popped an iodine figuring it would be enough to get me back -- 5 miles to my truck. I welcomed the flats that led to the shelter but there was an unexpected challenge. The bridge across the Mowich River was misplaced so I ended up having to ford a short section of dirty cold water. This was good for my legs but bad for my timing. I ended up wasting about 30 minutes.
I stopped for my final break just past another bridge crossing that was kind of wet. This was the low point of the trip elevation wise but the high point spirit wise. I had a PB&J sandwich and dehydrated pineapple, finished my quart of water and continued.
Mowich River crossing. You can see a log bridge on the right but it wasn't doing much good on dry ground. I ended up fording above it.
Wet bridge over another section of the Mowich River.
I knew the final 2500 vertical foot climb was going to be a pain. My mind was bent of finishing so I actually picked up the pace. My body had no reason to argue. A steady 3mph brought me to my truck around 6pm. Another 12 hour day. I ditched my pack and headed for the lake.
I spent 30 minutes chilling my feet and legs. The sun was going down but there were plenty of flies to keep me warm.
I stopped for some fast food on the way home. A good night's sleep helped my body recover. The thought of not having to wake up and hike another 30 miles helped my mind.
Some final thoughts:
The record time is 29 hours and 10 minutes. I think I can beat it.
Three days would be much more enjoyable if you had overnight gear and food stashed at White River and Longmire. Your body will thank you but take ski poles just in case.
I don't regret hitch hiking 12 miles from Box Canyon to Longmire. That just means I can return next year to try it again.